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 Taormina
- Castelmola
Walk This half-day walk has some steep
sections, so it's a good way to work off
all the fine Sicilian meals. On a clear
day the views down over Taormina,
across the coast and towards Etna are
fantastic.
The walk includes Castelmola,
the village you'll see perched high on
crags above Taormina,
and its ruined castle, as well as the
larger ruined castle that hovers directly
above Taormina.
The first section, Taormina
to Castelmola,
was rather mossy and neglected at the time
of writing (Spring 2004), and is the least
inspiring stretch, so if you prefer to
skip the uphill workout you can take a bus
from Taormina to Castelmola
and start from there.
Taormina
- Castelmola
From Porta Messina, head uphill and
turn right past the fountain and archway.
Follow Via Dietro Cappuccini. After a
short stretch of road, you'll come to a
path leading uphill on the left, clearly
labeled as Salita Branco. Once an old
mule-path, the concrete steps (rather
mossy and overgrown) head upwards past the
buildings of the local school.
This climb is tiring and not particularly
interesting, apart from the views back
over the sea. When you reach the main
road, cross over. Take the lane which
continues upwards towards a cluster of
houses. Following the small signs for
Castelmola
(with a pedestrian symbol) you'll find
yourself on a path winding around to the
right, under the crags on which the
village sits. Looking back, you may see
traces of the historic necropolis on the
ridge - but you'll get a better view on
the route back down. The steps are steep,
so when you emerge into Castelmola's
Piazza San Antonio you'll probably feel
you deserve a long cold drink at the
outdoors tables of the
Bar
Turrisi.
Castelmola
- Castello - Taormina
Aim downhill from the area of the Duomo,
and you should find yourself on a road
wide enough for cars, curving around the
base of the village. The pedestrian path
to Taormina
descends from this road, with a signpost
to identify it. First port of call is the
tiny Chiesa di San Biagio (locked), which
- according to the sign outside - dates
back to the first century. The trail has
obviously come in for some generous
funding, as most of the descent is wide
and paved, complete with a handrail and
lamp-posts. There's even a panoramic
picnic spot with stone seats, a water tap
and a litter bin. The path is lovely,
dropping through ancient cultivated
terraces - mostly now overgrown with
cactus and rampant wild flowers, which
also quilt the grassy banks. A few
intriguing cottages, semi-ruined, dot the
slopes. After the picnic spot, as you
approach the ridge, look upwards for an
excellent view of the necropolis: a rocky
outcrop above, peppered with dark
grave-openings. Shortly after this,
through a stone gateway, the funding
obviously ran out. The path deteriorates
into a narrow track, where you are
practically wading through undergrowth.
However, the footpath does continue, and
finally descends in little steps to a
narrow lane. Turn left to reach the main
road.
From this point you can either descend to
Taormina,
or continue with another climb up to the
fortress above the town. For the latter,
continue for a short way along the main
road to the left. Then a steep staircase
on the left allows you to head straight
uphill, cutting through the zigzagging
streets. A stiff climb later, and you
emerge on the spine of the ridge, by a bus
stop on the main road. Cross over for the
approach road for the Castello (which
passes several bars and restaurants).
There are great views over
Taormina
from outside the chapel at the end of the
lane, the Santuario della Madonna della
Rocca. A small window at eye-level enables
you to glimpse the church interior, which
is cut into the rock. A path leads upwards
to the Castello entrance.
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