 Taormina
- Castelmola Walk This half-day walk has some steep
sections, so it's a good way to work off all the fine
Sicilian meals. On a clear day the views down over
Taormina, across the coast and towards Etna are
fantastic.
The walk includes Castelmola, the village you'll see
perched high on crags above Taormina, and its ruined
castle, as well as the larger ruined castle that hovers
directly above Taormina.
The first section, Taormina to Castelmola, was rather
mossy and neglected at the time of writing (Spring
2004), and is the least inspiring stretch, so if you
prefer to skip the uphill workout you can take a bus
from Taormina to Castelmola and start from there.
Taormina - Castelmola From Porta Messina, head
uphill and turn right past the fountain and archway.
Follow Via Dietro Cappuccini. After a short stretch of
road, you'll come to a path leading uphill on the left,
clearly labeled as Salita Branco. Once an old mule-path,
the concrete steps (rather mossy and overgrown) head
upwards past the buildings of the local school.
This climb is tiring and not particularly interesting,
apart from the views back over the sea. When you reach
the main road, cross over. Take the lane which continues
upwards towards a cluster of houses. Following the small
signs for Castelmola (with a pedestrian symbol) you'll
find yourself on a path winding around to the right,
under the crags on which the village sits. Looking back,
you may see traces of the historic necropolis on the
ridge - but you'll get a better view on the route back
down. The steps are steep, so when you emerge into
Castelmola's Piazza San Antonio you'll probably feel you
deserve a long cold drink at the outdoors tables of the
Bar Turrisi.
Castelmola - Castello - Taormina
Aim downhill from the area of the Duomo, and you should
find yourself on a road wide enough for cars, curving
around the base of the village. The pedestrian path to
Taormina descends from this road, with a signpost to
identify it. First port of call is the tiny Chiesa di
San Biagio (locked), which - according to the sign
outside - dates back to the first century. The trail has
obviously come in for some generous funding, as most of
the descent is wide and paved, complete with a handrail
and lamp-posts. There's even a panoramic picnic spot
with stone seats, a water tap and a litter bin. The path
is lovely, dropping through ancient cultivated terraces
- mostly now overgrown with cactus and rampant wild
flowers, which also quilt the grassy banks. A few
intriguing cottages, semi-ruined, dot the slopes. After
the picnic spot, as you approach the ridge, look upwards
for an excellent view of the necropolis: a rocky outcrop
above, peppered with dark grave-openings. Shortly after
this, through a stone gateway, the funding obviously ran
out. The path deteriorates into a narrow track, where
you are practically wading through undergrowth. However,
the footpath does continue, and finally descends in
little steps to a narrow lane. Turn left to reach the
main road.
From this point you can either descend to Taormina, or
continue with another climb up to the fortress above the
town. For the latter, continue for a short way along the
main road to the left. Then a steep staircase on the
left allows you to head straight uphill, cutting through
the zigzagging streets. A stiff climb later, and you
emerge on the spine of the ridge, by a bus stop on the
main road. Cross over for the approach road for the
Castello (which passes several bars and restaurants).
There are great views over Taormina from outside the
chapel at the end of the lane, the Santuario della
Madonna della Rocca. A small window at eye-level enables
you to glimpse the church interior, which is cut into
the rock. A path leads upwards to the Castello entrance. |
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Along the
coastline is the beautiful seaside village of
Riposto with its Marina and magnificent
views of Mount Etna.
A big agricultural
center,
Riposto
boasts a rich production of wine grapes, citrus fruits,
and olives. The name
Riposto
derives from commercial Sicilian term U ripostu, that
means "wine cellar" because it used to function as a
deposit for the huge quantities of wine gathered in the
nearby towns of Giarre and Mascali.
The first suburb belonged to the town of Giarre until
1841, when it became independent thus experiencing a
noteworthy financial an urban development.
In 1939, the town became dependent once again,
subjugated to Giarre's administration, and it was first
called "Riposto-Giarre" and in 1942, it was named "Jonia".
In 1945, the two towns
were administratively divided once again.
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